For safe and happy cycling, it’s important to understand how to check your bicycle before you set off on your journey and how to keep it maintained for optimum performance.

You don't need to go to the local bike shop or call a friend, these are simple things you can learn to do all by yourself to have ultimate cycling freedom!

This guide covers the basic checks you should carry out before setting off. The rest of our 101 tutorials cover: The essential tools you should always carry; How to fix a puncture; and How to adjust your brake and gear cables.

The Basic Checks:

• Know your bike
• The M Check
• Lubricating your bike

1. Know Your Bike

Understand the anatomy of your bike and how each component works - watch this short video (less than 3mins) by Trek Bikes. Whether you have a road or mountain bike, it will always have these basic components.

What are the different parts of a bicycle 

2.The M-Check

The M-check is an easy and thorough system that can be applied to any bike to check everything is in good, working order. Starting from assessing your rear tyre and check your bike following the letter M taking in your saddle and brakes.

"How do I check my bike before a ride?" Sustrans has created this great video showing you how to do the M-check and make any fixes if you notice something isn't right...

And who says kid's can't check their own bike, in less than a minute.... check out this great video from British Cycling. 

Questions you should ask yourself when doing the M-check:

• Is the rear derailleur fitted correctly and does it shift smoothly?
• Ensure that the axle nuts/ quick release are tight/ No side to side play in the hubs
• Are the brakes fitted securely?
• Ensure spokes aren’t loose
• Are the tyres inflated and free from glass, thorns and nails?
• Is the saddle fitted securely and at the right angle?
• Is the seat post clamp tight?
• Is the front derailleur fitted correctly and does it shift smoothly?
• Are the pedals fitted correctly?
• Ensure front and rear suspension travel freely?
• Is the frame free from rust damage and cracks?
• Are the brakes working correctly?
• Check right lever (front brake), check left lever (rear brake) - will they stop you in an emergency?
• Ensure that the steering operates freely with no excessive play or obstruction.
• Check the cables do not obstruct steering
• Are the right reflectors fitted?
• Ensure that the nuts/quick release are tight. Leave no side-to-side play in the hubs
• Are the wheels should be spinning freely and straight?

3. Lubricating your bike

To keep your bicycle in tip-top condition, we recommend you spend a few minutes each week giving it some love and attention.

All moving parts of a bike require lubrication to work effectively. Many of these are sealed (the bearings for example) so don’t need regular input from us, however others do. These typically include the:

• chain
• cables
• "mechs" - front and rear derailleurs
• some types of clip-in pedals

By keeping it clean and lubricated, you’ll extend your bike’s life and avoid some more expensive problems and repairs later on. Only lubricate your bike when it’s dry. If you oil elements when they are wet it can prevent the water from evaporating properly

Note: When lubricating a bike ensure that you avoid getting oil on the brakes and braking surfaces e.g. wheel rims or discs. If there’s oil on these, they will not work effectively and will make the bike dangerous to ride!

The Chain:

Use appropriate oil for the chain, to suit the conditions of the season.

Dry and wet variants are available from most manufacturers. Spray on lubricants should be applied behind the sprockets (1); dropper or non-propelled lubricants applied at the lower section of chain (2).

Apply lube only when the chain is clean and dry. We prefer to lube the chain as little as possible, with as light a lube as we can get away with. Use a dripper bottle because it’s easier to apply accurately, with minimum waste. Coat the whole chain, spinning the cranks to force the lube into the links. That’s where lube is most useful, not on the outside plates, as many believe. One full rotation of the chain should be sufficient. Avoid putting too much oil on as it will simply attract dirt and wear the components faster. After letting the oil seep in for a couple of minutes, rub the chain with a rag to wipe away any excess lube.

How fast a chain wears depends on many factors – riding style, weight, riding conditions and how well you follow the previously outlined steps. On average, expect to replace your chain every 2,500-3,000km on a road bike and closer to every 1,000km on a mountain bike.

"How do I clean and lube my bike chain?" - check out this mini video  

"Mechs" or Derailleurs:

Moving elements of the front and rear mech (derailleur) appreciate a light lube. These include the pivots and the jockey wheel bearings.

Front mechs often suffer from neglect. They’re hard to access and are often jammed full of grit and drier than a cracker. We recommend giving them a thorough wipe and applying a little chain or penetrating oil to the pivots to get it swinging right again.

After the oil has dried, rub the mech with a rag to remove excessive oil that could pick up dirt and wear components faster.

Cables:

Over time, cables can become stiffer and not run through the outer cable smoothly effectively making braking and changing gear harder and less accurate. To lubricate cables, first free the cable itself. Note – for frames with internal cable routing, this step may not be possible.

1) Cable breaks: Release the brake at the callipers. Free the cable from the cable stops by pulling the outer cable away from the stop in the direction of the cable run, and then pull the inner cable through the cable stop slot.

2) Gear cables: Put the mech into a large sprocket or large chainring position, then without pedalling, click the gear levers (shifters) until the mech would have been on the smallest chainring or sprocket. It is important not to pedal, as the chain now holds the mech in position. The cable is now loose and the outer and inner cables can be released as for the brakes above.

3) Use a rag: Focusing just on the areas where an outer cable sits, clean the inner cable, then coat with a light oil from the top or use a cable oiler to help push the oil through the outer cable

4) Re-site the cable: In its original position and replace it within the cable stops. If the position of the mech has slipped whilst lubing the cables, press the mech back up with your fingers to allow cable re-siting.